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Old 22nd June 2008, 04:29 PM   #1
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Arrow Emanage Ultimate FAQ

Here are some answers to getting an E-manage ultimate set-up, wired in, and initial programming to get your car started.


Jumper Settings

1 - open
2 - open
3 - open
4 - open
5 - open
6 - open

The first six jumpers should be left in the open position. This enables you to add and subtract fuel from the the maps.

7 - 1-2
8 - 1-2 = Spec2 2-3 = Spec1

Jumpers 7 and 8 set up the ignition type. Make sure jumper 8 is on pins 2-3 for Spec1 engines and 1-2 for Spec2 engines.

9 - open
10 - 1-2

Jumpers 9 and 10 are airflow setup. This setting is correct for all RB's

11 - open (1-2 for temp sensor)
12 - open (1-2 for temp sensor)

Jumpers 11 and 12 are for the option ports on the front of the emu. Setting them to pins 1-2 for Greddy temperatur sesnsor's or open when using the MAP and Widband sensors

13 - 1-2 (water temp enabled)
14 - open (knock sensor enabled)

Jumpers 13 and 14 read the knock sensors and/or inlet air temp and water temp. Set 13 to 1-2 to read water temp and 14 to open to read the knock sensor.

15 - 1-2

Jumper 15 sets rpm input type. Should be 1-2 for all RB's

16 - open
17 - 1-2

Jumpers 16 and 17 are not used on Skylines as they are for something called VTEC (yo)

18 - open

Jumper 18 has the same effect as jumpers 1-6. Setting it to open enables you to add and subtract fuel from the map.

19 - 1-2
20 - 1-2

Jumpers 19 and 20 are extrachannels. They can be used to control 2 extra injectors or for controlling NVCS or relays. Set to pins 1-2 for NVCS/relay or open for extra injectors.

Wiring

The easiest way is to use the plug 'n' play harnesses available, but it can be done by soldering each individual wire (r34 doesnt have a pnp harness available).

The GTR harness should be a direct connection for the GTSt, but if you experince problems with ignition timing then swap the crank and cam angle sensor wires around.

Connector A is for the ignition system, the only thing to take with here is the order of the channels. They should go -

Channel 1 - Coil 1
Channel 2 - Coil 5
Channel 3 - Coil 3
Channel 4 - Coil 6
Channel 5 - Coil 2
Channel 6 - Coil 4

Conncetor's A and B have the injector wiring and should be wired up Channel 1 to Injecto 1. Channel 2 to injector 2, etc, etc.

The sensor wires for the most part connect to the existing ecu wiring, however, air flow, analog in/out, speed sensor and nvcs require you to cut the the wire from the ecu and splice in the emu between the stock ecu and the relevant sensor.

Last edited by Gambit; 24th November 2008 at 06:50 PM..
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Old 22nd June 2008, 04:30 PM   #2
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Software setup

First thing to do is to go here http://www.greddy.com/news/?id=9 and download the current software Follow the instructions on the site and it will update the software on the laptop and the firmware in the emu.

When your done updating start up the software and click on the parameter setting icon (pic of a car)

Vehicle Tab

Engine code - set your engine type. RB25 etc

Airflow change to - not used unless you have changed your air flow meter. If you have choose which one it is from the list

RPM signal type - crank angle. Other setting may cause 100% injector spikes.

Off set angle - If the datalog shows a timing of 17 when you know your
timing is at 15 then your offset is -2

Vehicle speed adjust - will adjust the vehicle speed. Im not sure if its the actual speedo it adjusts or just the datalog as my speedo has been modified quite a bit.

Speed limit cut - Removes speed limiter. Again, not sure how it functions as my speedo is modified.

Throttle

With the engine off, press the accelerator to the floor and release a few times. This should set the min and max values according to your car. It has been known for these values to become incorrect over time but only by 1%.

CH Setting

To use water temp, tick the box. Sensor type NS_WT-1.
To use intake temp, tick the box. Sensor type NS_AT-1.

The emu only allows you to monitor temperature OR knock. On a GTS you would use knock instead of air temp, on a GTR you may wish to do the same.

Knock Signal

In. temp/knock, non-resonant @ 7.02KHZ

Airflow input 2 is set according to GTR or GTSt (ie not used or airflow signal)

Analog input/output is dependant on how it was wired in. Mine is replacing the tps signal so the settings are accelerator. This option and wiring is not really needed.

Front Panel

Option1/Option 2 relate to the ports on front of the emu, just select the appropriate option.

It is possible to connect any wideband gauge to the emu, I have my AEM one connected by selecting 'other' and '10.00' and '19.99' The two sets of numbers relate to what the wideband unit registers at 1v and 5v respectively.
Also, you do NOT need the proper Greddy wiring harness to connect a wideband. I used the small grey 4-pin wire that connects a cd-rom drive to a soundcard. All you need to do is trim down the plug to fit the emu and solder the other end to the analog output from your wideand.

Serial.

Using a std 3.5mm stereo jack you can connect a singal Greddy gauge (memory recall type)

Warning

Sets the conditons required for the led on the front of the emu to flash at you

Dip Switches.

These relate to the four dip switches on front of the emu. For example you could set it so that with all 4 turned on you have ign. maps 1&2 on and inj. maps 1&2 on. With
1&3 on 2&4 off you could have ign. and inj. map 1 on but ign and inj map 2 off.

A/F Target.

Autotune your AFR's
Affected map should be set to i/j adjustment map 1, water temp 30 - 110c, throttle 1%. The rest is dependant on your wideband gauge.
Using this in conjunction with the A/F target map allows you to adjust your fuelling to whatever AFR's you wish. I have my lambda removed completely and used this set up to retune my closed loop setting for lean cruising. Uses a lot less fuel now.

I/J

The table dictates what your injector channels are doing, adding fuel only or subtracting. The est thing is to leave them as +/-. CH-A/CH-B are where you select additional injectors or NVCS control.
The panel below it is used for upgrading your injectors. If you are using stock injectors then set all 4 boxes to 0's. If upgraded injectors are fitted then the 'before' settings should be set to what the stock injectors are (370cc .7 lag for a R33 GTSt) and the 'after' box set to whatever your current injectors are.

IGN.

This is the fun one to play with

Ignore the top half as it will be set correctly by default.

Start - This is the setting for what rpm you want your rev limit to be when the car is not moving (launch control)
Ign Cut RPM - is your revlimit (7000)
Shift up - RPM limit when shifting gears (flat shifting)

Ticking the adj. boxes willadjust the ignition timing according to the 'IGN adjustement' box.

Throttle position should be 50%, meaning you need to have the pedal over half way down to activate the launch control (if you set it to 99% you need to floor it to activate launch)
IGN adjustment should be -20. This will result in your egt's going through the rof and spooling the turbo (and probably breaking something)
# of vs pulses. How many pulses fromt the speed sensor before the emu raises the rev limit from launch control to standard. About 6 should be fine.

If you have the stock tubby you shouldn't really use launch control as it WILL break it.

Trace

Leave as default

MapSelect

Choose whichever ones you want to play with. But you will need to use airflow adjustment map, and i/j adj. map 1 ign adj. map 1.
When adjusting the fuelling on the car use the inj adjustment map NOT the airflow adj. map.

Main logger

Leave as default

A/T Shift

No idea as it is for auto transmission and I haven't tried it out as I dont have an auto


When your done, click ok, close down the software and turn off the ignition for a few seconds, this allows the emu to take in the car settings you just specified.

You should then be able to turn on the ignition and start the car.

Last edited by Gambit; 22nd June 2008 at 04:33 PM..
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Old 22nd June 2008, 05:06 PM   #3
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Made a sticky so it doesn't get lost, Very good informative thread there
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Old 22nd June 2008, 05:09 PM   #4
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Cheers for posting that Mark, I think I am going to be needing it soon for Yabba's 33
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Old 22nd June 2008, 10:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahapartridge View Post
Cheers for posting that Mark, I think I am going to be needing it soon for Yabba's 33

We may also need your mobile number mark, could save a "im stuck in warrington and my car wont start" thread


Just for future reference if anyone is searching, this place sell the extras and you can also download the latest software... http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/#E-...tional%20Parts

I personally had good service and very quick delivery from them
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Old 22nd June 2008, 10:30 PM   #6
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I had Yabba in mind when I was writing it lol

One other thing to add is there is no point in getting a bigger AFM to use on the emanage ultimate.
Although it has an option for changing the AFM to a different one the way it uses the AFM makes it a pointless job.

When you connect a larger AFM to the emu it reads the voltages straight from the AFM which is great, but, the emu then translates this input voltage into the equivalent voltage of a stock AFM.
So although you may a Z32 on the car it still has the same voltage range (and thus airflow range) of the stock unit.

Also, it can't read a Q45 at all.
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Old 22nd June 2008, 10:33 PM   #7
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That is a great site, but I will say eBay supplied my emu and map sensor at a very reasonable price

And as I posted the lead for connecting a wideband can be replaced with a cable from a pc (usually supplied with any new cd drive), the lead for connecting a gauge to the serial port are standard 3.5 stereo cables (jack to jack) and there only a couple of quid.
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Old 24th June 2008, 10:39 PM   #8
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Any idea what to input for injector lag time mate or how I might find out for deatschwerks 550's? I think I read it would be 0.00 as they are rebuilt injectors, does this sound right?
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Old 24th June 2008, 11:28 PM   #9
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LMAO.

I think they have a lag of 0.00 but you may have to increase it to 0.07 (i think) if your having idle issues.
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Old 5th July 2008, 10:48 PM   #10
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AFR Harness

As you look at the option ports on the emu you will see 3 pins.

The one on the left is (white) for the positive output from the wideband gauge. This will be a 0-5volt reading. The centre is not used and the right hand side is (grey) for the earth connection of the wideband gauge.



Now, you can either buy the lead above from mohdparts, or use a cd audio lead cut down a little like this.



The three pin arrangement as shown fits perfectly and works perfectly.



In this picture the orange lead is positive, and the black lead is negative.


After you have made these connections you will need to tell the emu what your wideband is. This is done through the sofwtare, in the parameters setting window and the "front panel" tab.
If your particular wideband is not listed you can select other and input the relevant afr readings that correspond to the 0-5v range. For example for AEM units it's 10.00 - 19.99.



As you can see here, it may also be required to set up the software that comes with your wideband gauge.
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Old 24th November 2008, 09:37 AM   #11
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Hi, I'm newbie to this forum and EMU. I've just installed EMU to my car and have one problem. The ignition timing in the datalog show that it currently running on 110degree btdc when idling and it doesn't change when the rpm change. And also the EMU didn't sensing any knock when the engine under full load and show 0 knock on the datalog. What did I do wrong? Is it the wiring or setup in the jumper or software? I believe that I've done 100% similar with this thread setup. Anyone can help? Thanks.

Last edited by bnr_32; 24th November 2008 at 09:46 AM.. Reason: adding new problem
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Old 24th November 2008, 06:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnr_32 View Post
Hi, I'm newbie to this forum and EMU. I've just installed EMU to my car and have one problem. The ignition timing in the datalog show that it currently running on 110degree btdc when idling and it doesn't change when the rpm change.
Sounds like you have the crank and cam angle wires backwards (connector C, pins 33 and 39) Swap them round and check your timing again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bnr_32 View Post
And also the EMU didn't sensing any knock when the engine under full load and show 0 knock on the datalog. What did I do wrong? Is it the wiring or setup in the jumper or software? I believe that I've done 100% similar with this thread setup. Anyone can help? Thanks.
So long as the wires connected to the knock sensor and the software is set up as above (In. temp/knock, non-resonant @ 7.02KHZ) then you will be fine. You will only see knock on the datalog if the knock sensors hear it.
Unlike the PFC, the EMU only shows actual knock and not similar frequencies.

So far, the only time mines recorded anything is when I used injector cleaner.
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Old 25th November 2008, 07:05 AM   #13
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Thanks Gambit , I'll try it today
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