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Thread: Emanage Ultimate FAQ

  1. #1
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    Arrow Emanage Ultimate FAQ

    Here are some answers to getting an E-manage ultimate set-up, wired in, and initial programming to get your car started.


    Jumper Settings

    1 - open
    2 - open
    3 - open
    4 - open
    5 - open
    6 - open

    The first six jumpers should be left in the open position. They correspond to injectors 1-6 and enables you to add and subtract fuel from the the maps.

    7 - 1-2
    8 - 2-3

    Jumpers 7 and 8 set up the ignition type. Make sure jumper 8 is on pins 2-3 for Spec1 and spec2 engines.

    9 - open
    10 - 1-2

    Jumpers 9 and 10 are airflow setup. This setting is correct for ALL RB's

    11 - open (1-2 for temp sensor)
    12 - open (1-2 for temp sensor)

    Jumpers 11 and 12 are for the option ports on the front of the emu. Setting them to open for Greddy temperature sensor's or open when using the MAP and Wideband sensors

    13 - open (water temp enabled)
    14 - open (knock sensor enabled)

    Jumpers 13 and 14 read the knock sensors and/or inlet air temp and water temp. Open position will work for both temperature sensors and knock sensors.

    15 - 1-2

    Jumper 15 sets rpm input type. Should be 1-2 for all RB's

    16 - open
    17 - 1-2

    Jumpers 16 and 17 are not used on Skylines as they are for something called VTEC (yo)

    18 - open

    Jumper 18 has the same effect as jumpers 1-6. Setting it to open enables you to add and subtract fuel from the map.

    19 - 1-2
    20 - 1-2

    Jumpers 19 and 20 are extra channels. They can be used to control 2 extra injectors or for controlling NVCS or relays. Set to pins 1-2 for NVCS/relay or open for extra injectors.

    Wiring

    The easiest way is to use the plug 'n' play harnesses available, but it can be done by soldering each individual wire (r34 doesn't have a pnp harness available).

    The GTR harness should be a direct connection for the GTSt, but if you experience problems with ignition timing then swap the crank and cam angle sensor wires around.

    Connector A is for the ignition system, the only thing to take care with here is the order of the channels. They should go -

    Channel 1 - Coil 1
    Channel 2 - Coil 5
    Channel 3 - Coil 3
    Channel 4 - Coil 6
    Channel 5 - Coil 2
    Channel 6 - Coil 4

    Connector's A and B have the injector wiring and should be wired up Channel 1 to Injector 1. Channel 2 to injector 2, etc, etc.

    The sensor wires for the most part connect to the existing ecu wiring, however, air flow, analog in/out, speed sensor and nvcs require you to cut the the wire from the ecu and splice in the emu between the stock ecu and the relevant sensor.
    Last edited by Gambit; 3rd July 2011 at 12:00 PM.

  2. #2
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    Software setup

    First thing to do is to go here http://www.greddy.com/tech-support/e-manage/ and download the current software.

    Connect the USB lead from the emu to your laptop, and turn the ignition to the ON position.

    Follow the instructions on the site and it will update the software on the laptop and the firmware in the emu

    When you're done updating start up the software, confirm that you want to connect to the emu and click on the parameter setting icon (pic of a car)

    Vehicle Tab

    Engine code - set your engine type. RB25 etc

    Airflow change to - not used unless you have changed your air flow meter. If you have choose which one it is from the list

    RPM signal type - crank angle. Other setting may cause 100% injector spikes, problems with launch control

    Off set angle - If the datalog shows a timing of 17 when you know your
    timing is at 15 then your offset is -2

    Vehicle speed adjust - will adjust the vehicle speed. I'm not sure if its the actual speedo it adjusts or just the datalog as my speedo has been modified quite a bit.

    Speed limiter cut - Removes speed limiter. Set to deactivate to remove 180kph limiter.

    Throttle

    With the engine off, press the accelerator to the floor and release a few times. This should set the min and max values according to your car. It has been known for these values to become incorrect over time but only by 1%.

    CH Setting

    To use water temp, tick the box. Sensor type NS_WT-1.
    To use intake temp, tick the box. Sensor type NS_AT-1.

    The emu only allows you to monitor temperature OR knock. On a GTS you would use knock instead of air temp, on a GTR you may wish to do the same.

    Knock Signal

    In. temp/knock, non-resonant @ 6.60KHZ

    Airflow input 2 is set according to GTR or GTSt (ie not used or airflow signal)

    Analog input/output is dependent on how it was wired in. Mine is replacing the tps signal so the settings are accelerator. This option and wiring is not really needed.

    Front Panel

    Option1/Option 2 relate to the ports on front of the emu, just select the appropriate option.

    It is possible to connect any wideband gauge to the emu, I have my AEM one connected by selecting 'other' and '10.00' and '19.50'. The two sets of numbers relate to what the wideband unit registers at 1v and 5v respectively.
    Also, you do NOT need the proper Greddy wiring harness to connect a wideband. I used the small grey 4-pin wire that connects a cd-rom drive to a PC's soundcard. All you need to do is trim down the plug to fit the emu and solder the other end to the analog output from your wideband.

    Serial.

    Using a std 3.5mm stereo jack you can connect a single Greddy gauge (memory recall type) and datalog it's readings.

    Warning

    Sets the conditons required for the led on the front of the emu to flash at you

    Dip Switches.

    These relate to the four dip switches on front of the emu. For example you could set it so that with all 4 turned on you have ign. maps 1&2 on and inj. maps 1&2 on. With
    1&3 on 2&4 off you could have ign. and inj. map 1 on but ign and inj map 2 off.

    A/F Target.

    Autotune your AFR's
    Affected map should be set to i/j adjustment map 1, water temp 30 - 110c, throttle 1%. The rest is dependent on your wideband gauge.
    Using this in conjunction with the A/F target map allows you to adjust your fueling to whatever AFR's you wish.

    This will map the fuelling for you, however the recommended way to use it is -

    Affected map should be set to i/j adjustment map 2, water temp 30 - 110c, throttle 10%. The rest is dependent on your wideband gauge.

    This will autotune the secondary injector map as you drive compensating for temperature variations. Use this setting AFTER the car has been properly mapped using injector map 1.

    The autotune works with and without having a laptop connected (at least with version 2.20)


    I/J

    The table dictates what your injector channels are doing, adding fuel only or subtracting. The best thing is to leave them as +/-. CH-A/CH-B are where you select additional injectors or NVCS control.
    The panel below it is used for upgrading your injectors. If you are using stock injectors then set all 4 boxes to 0's, or set both the before and after settings to the stock injector values. If upgraded injectors are fitted then the 'before' settings should be set to what the stock injectors are (370cc .52 lag for a R33 GTSt) and the 'after' box set to whatever your current injectors are.

    I found the best way to accurately set the injector size is to use a consult cable with OBD Scantech running to monitor the fuel trim. I then adjusted the emu injector output size until the trim held at 100% both at idle and a sustained 2000rpm.


    IGN.

    This is the fun one to play with

    Ignore the top half as it will be set correctly by default.

    Start - This is the setting for what rpm you want your rev limit to be when the car is not moving (launch control)
    Ign Cut RPM - is your rev limit (7000)
    Shift up - RPM limit when shifting gears (flat shifting)

    Ticking the adj. boxes will adjust the ignition timing according to the 'IGN adjustment' box.

    Throttle position should be 50%, meaning you need to have the pedal over half way down to activate the launch control (if you set it to 99% you need to floor it to activate launch)

    IGN adjustment should be -20. This will result in your egt's going up and spooling the turbo (and probably breaking something)

    # of vs pulses. Sets how many pulses from the speed sensor before the emu raises the rev limit from launch control to standard. About 6 should be fine.

    If you have the stock tubby you shouldn't really use launch control as it WILL break it.

    Trace

    Leave as default

    MapSelect

    Choose whichever ones you want to play with. But you will need to use airflow adjustment map, and i/j adj. map 1 ign adj. map 1.
    When adjusting the fueling on the car use the inj adjustment map NOT the airflow adj. map.

    Main logger

    Leave as default

    A/T Shift

    No idea as it is for auto transmission and I haven't tried it out as I don't have an auto


    When your done, click OK, close down the software and turn off the ignition for a few seconds, this allows the emu to take in the car settings you just specified.

    You should then be able to turn on the ignition and start the car. If you have problems at this point, turn the ignition to on, start up the e-manage software and double check all the above settings are read from the EMU.
    Last edited by Gambit; 3rd July 2011 at 12:07 PM.

  3. #3
    lubrication is everything Administrator Squeak's Avatar
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    Made a sticky so it doesn't get lost, Very good informative thread there
    Adam - AdContrast Photography | Linkedin

    Say Hello to fellow enthusiasts today! I welcome you to www.skyline-owners-club.com
    The UK's Friendliest Nissan Skyline Owners Club. National and International events, meets and trackdays organised. knowledgeable and technical advice widely available.

  4. #4
    Half Man Half Partridge Club Member Ahapartridge's Avatar
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    Cheers for posting that Mark, I think I am going to be needing it soon for Yabba's 33

  5. #5
    Skyline Enthusiast Registered User
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ahapartridge View Post
    Cheers for posting that Mark, I think I am going to be needing it soon for Yabba's 33

    We may also need your mobile number mark, could save a "im stuck in warrington and my car wont start" thread


    Just for future reference if anyone is searching, this place sell the extras and you can also download the latest software... http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/#E-...tional%20Parts

    I personally had good service and very quick delivery from them

  6. #6
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    I had Yabba in mind when I was writing it lol

    One other thing to add is there is no point in getting a bigger AFM to use on the emanage ultimate.
    Although it has an option for changing the AFM to a different one the way it uses the AFM makes it a pointless job.

    When you connect a larger AFM to the emu it reads the voltages straight from the AFM which is great, but, the emu then translates this input voltage into the equivalent voltage of a stock AFM.
    So although you may a Z32 on the car it still has the same voltage range (and thus airflow range) of the stock unit.

    Also, it can't read a Q45 at all.

  7. #7
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    That is a great site, but I will say eBay supplied my emu and map sensor at a very reasonable price

    And as I posted the lead for connecting a wideband can be replaced with a cable from a pc (usually supplied with any new cd drive), the lead for connecting a gauge to the serial port are standard 3.5 stereo cables (3.5 stereo mini jack to 3.5 stereo mini jack) and there only a couple of quid.
    Last edited by Gambit; 25th February 2009 at 08:48 PM.

  8. #8
    Skyline Enthusiast Registered User
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    Any idea what to input for injector lag time mate or how I might find out for deatschwerks 550's? I think I read it would be 0.00 as they are rebuilt injectors, does this sound right?

  9. #9
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    LMAO.

    I think they have a lag of 0.00 but you may have to increase it to 0.07 (i think) if your having idle issues.

  10. #10
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    AFR Harness

    As you look at the option ports on the emu you will see 3 pins.

    The one on the left is (white) for the positive output from the wideband gauge. This will be a 0-5volt reading. The centre is not used and the right hand side is (grey) for the earth connection of the wideband gauge.



    Now, you can either buy the lead above from mohdparts, or use a cd audio lead cut down a little like this.



    The three pin arrangement as shown fits perfectly and works perfectly.



    In this picture the orange lead is positive, and the black lead is negative.


    After you have made these connections you will need to tell the emu what your wideband is. This is done through the sofwtare, in the parameters setting window and the "front panel" tab.
    If your particular wideband is not listed you can select other and input the relevant afr readings that correspond to the 0-5v range. For example for AEM units it's 10.00 - 19.99.



    As you can see here, it may also be required to set up the software that comes with your wideband gauge.

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    Hi, I'm newbie to this forum and EMU. I've just installed EMU to my car and have one problem. The ignition timing in the datalog show that it currently running on 110degree btdc when idling and it doesn't change when the rpm change. And also the EMU didn't sensing any knock when the engine under full load and show 0 knock on the datalog. What did I do wrong? Is it the wiring or setup in the jumper or software? I believe that I've done 100% similar with this thread setup. Anyone can help? Thanks.
    Last edited by bnr_32; 24th November 2008 at 08:46 AM. Reason: adding new problem

  12. #12
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnr_32 View Post
    Hi, I'm newbie to this forum and EMU. I've just installed EMU to my car and have one problem. The ignition timing in the datalog show that it currently running on 110degree btdc when idling and it doesn't change when the rpm change.
    Sounds like you have the crank and cam angle wires backwards (connector C, pins 33 and 39) Swap them round and check your timing again.

    Quote Originally Posted by bnr_32 View Post
    And also the EMU didn't sensing any knock when the engine under full load and show 0 knock on the datalog. What did I do wrong? Is it the wiring or setup in the jumper or software? I believe that I've done 100% similar with this thread setup. Anyone can help? Thanks.
    So long as the wires connected to the knock sensor and the software is set up as above (In. temp/knock, non-resonant @ 7.02KHZ) then you will be fine. You will only see knock on the datalog if the knock sensors hear it.
    Unlike the PFC, the EMU only shows actual knock and not similar frequencies.

    So far, the only time mines recorded anything is when I used injector cleaner.

  13. #13
    Skyline Enthusiast Registered User
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    Thanks Gambit , I'll try it today

  14. #14
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    are the input & output ignition wires to be set up according to your instructions. i am getting error code 69,70,71,72 : incorrect 1ch, 2ch, 4ch& 5ch ignition input signal error. how do i solve this problem

  15. #15
    President of Roundabouts Anonymous Registered User Gambit's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have the wiring in the wrong order or you have a serious mis-fire.

    Double check everything is wired up to match the following.

    Channel 1 - Coil 1
    Channel 2 - Coil 5
    Channel 3 - Coil 3
    Channel 4 - Coil 6
    Channel 5 - Coil 2
    Channel 6 - Coil 4

    Input wiring is the stock ecu's side of the wiring loom and the output is the engine side of the loom.

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