external gate

[MR Y]

what would be involved in changing a turbo from internal gate to external? i.e what parts and what work would be involved?

[Spearmint]

It would have to be a top mount set-up due to space constraints so a new turbo for starters along with a top mount manifold suitable for an external setup, a wastegate, pipework for the turbo including oil / water lines, inlet / outlet and also if you want the exhaust gasses plumbed back in or vented to atmosphere.

If you don't get a kit with all the bits in one go and decide to have a little something from here and there then extensive modification of these components may need to be considered.

You'll also need a suitable downpipe which is alot of messing around just to get it made up and fitting in such a way that won't pose a danger to the car.

At the very least a remap will be needed and possibly bigger injectors and AFM if you are already near the existing units limits.

Basically alot of work and in my case the main reason why Project Spearmint took so long to get going again due to all the faffing around Andy had to go through.

[Gambit]

Doesn't "have" to be top mount

I've got an HKS cast low mount manifold with external gate and TO4E sat in the shed but as for everyting else....yup custom and expensive.

[MR Y]

Originally Posted by Gambit

HKS cast low mount manifold with external gate and TO4E sat in the shed

Shed as in garden shed or shed as in old car?!

Cheers Richie, you managed to put me right off Best find another way to cure my boost problems then

[Gambit]

Shed as in garden for once lol

You don't need an external gate for boost, just for lurverly noise when on boost

[MR Y]

I do Though im trying a few other things first

Now the Bostons are away, rest of em at activity weekend, so if any of you get a min....

Garrett Gt3071r - Skylines Australia

im MR.E page 3 btw

and this one with someone else who had probs

Dyno Results And Over Boosting Issue - Skylines Australia


At the moment had some probs with mapping with the emanage and with running with the map sensor, I know its boosting to at least 1.4b not sure how much more it would go as afm is maxing out at this point

[Gambit]

Have you got an egt gauge? has the timing been checked to make sure it's not too retarded?

[MR Y]

Originally Posted by Gambit

Have you got an egt gauge? has the timing been checked to make sure it's not too retarded?

Nope not got the gauge, and Im pretty sure timing will be fine, assuming thats checked after changing cams? sorry, im not the most car technical person around

I did read about increasing preload on the actuator to keep it down but a couple of people have told me that would increase it?

[Gambit]

increasing pre-load will keep the actuator closed longer and increase boost.

Have you tried disconnecting the actuator, wiring the flap open permanently and then see what boost you can make?

[MR Y]

Originally Posted by Gambit

increasing pre-load will keep the actuator closed longer and increase boost.

Have you tried disconnecting the actuator, wiring the flap open permanently and then see what boost you can make?

Hmmm nope, I know at the moment its just running off the actuator, if theres not alot involved in that then its going upto johns for an mot next week so i will beg him to try that

[Gambit]

give it a try and hopefully you won't see any boost, if you do then either the gate isn't big enough or posibly ignition retarded or possibly overfuelling.

As for afm, mine was maxxed out at .81bar on a stock turbo.
You will be better off using the map sensor for mapping when on boost only and using the afm for off boost mapping. Sounds odd but I've found it the best way to run it.

So... have injector map1 and ignition map1 set as afm vs rpm and injector map2 and ignition map2 as mapsensor voltage vs rpm.
Then set boost cut to 5.00volt at all rev points.

The idea is that you use the afm as far as it goes then when it runs out at 5v the emanage uses the extra 2 maps for the map sensor up to what ever boost level your going to.

You can also have the lambda disconnected and the mapcells for cruising set for a leanish afr (15:1) for improved fuel consumption.

[MR Y]

thanks very much for all that info dude i will let you know how i get on

[Little Kez]

VRUUUUUUUUUUM PPPSSSCHHTTTTTTT hehehehe

[MR Y]

Well, disconnected actuator arm and still getting at least 1bar so next step to try and open up the wastegate hole a little

[Spearmint]

Take the downpipe off and have a look inside the back. The wastegate should open freely without the actuator arm on.