stalling problem

[B&Q]

since the work I did recently (fmic, fuel pump & filter, oil relo & cooler) I have an annoying problem.... it keeps stalling @ idle.

Now, let me assure you, stalling in an auto is no fun at all and can be dangerous.... you can't restart on the roll in neutral... you have to stop & put it in park before turning the key.... brilliant, esp. when you're in the middle of a roundabout.

The problem is acute when cold (i.e., it won't idle at all), and bad until it gets to normal operating temp when it seems to cope ok, though if you drop the revs dramatically (e.g., go from accel to braking to a standstill) it can still stall.

One odd thing I have noticed that must be related is that the idle has reduced to 400 when cold and only gets as high as 500 when hot. It used to idle @ 700.

Anyone got any ideas? Bear in mind a lot of ancilliary stuff came off in doing the above jobs so it may not be directly related to them.

tia.

[Trev]

Stab in the dark. I bet you have a BOV fitted?

[B&Q]

perish the thought! Nope.

actually, I was thinking about that on the way home, i.e., maybe the standard recirc is somehow open to atmos causing the problem? Not sure if thats possible, and either way that doesn't really explain why it doesn't idle at all until hot... surely a BOV makes it stall when the revs drop?

[Trev]

BOV`s are notorious for causing stalling issues. TBH I read 90% of your post (footy`s on) and took an educated guess as this is the most common fault.

[alexj]

are your AAC and TPS plugged in

[B&Q]

Originally Posted by alexj

are your AAC and TPS plugged in

Alex, I don't know what they are or where I would find them.

[Ahapartridge]

Tim, give all the small vac pipes a check for splits/good connection etc, it will be something stupid (no, not squeak hiding in your engine bay) no doubt

[alexj]

sorry that was a bit cryptic; AAC is the auxilary air valve which sits behind the throttle housing, TPS is the throttle position sensor (there's also a throttle switch) these three and some other bits combine to keep the idle stable

[alexj]

i've just had a browse through the fault diagnosis section in the r32gtr manual I've got - for this sort of thing the suspects are 1)AAC not controlling idle properly 2)running rich (ie a air leek as per pete's sugestion) 3)ignition timing

since you've just had all the pipes apart to do the fmic no 2 looks likely

[ISJ]

it may also be the weight of all the hks and nismo stickers he's bought off ebay in the past 3 months

[B&Q]

thanks guys, I guess its a toss-up between an air leak and the weight of the stickers then.

I'll buy another couple of stickers and see if it makes it any worse....

Or go round again and tighten everything up....

[RoboPope]

Tim,
Use the stickers to stop the air leak, that will sort it out. I had an air leak yesterday there was a huuuuuuge split in the rubber thingy where the pipe goes down through the n/s inner wing the car was flat as kate moss with no boost

Paul

[ISJ]

LMAO @ Pope !!

Theres also the illuminated paddle switch he bought for £3.49 + p&p - there maybe a short somewhere and its causing the hamster in the turbo to strike like all the public sector did yesterday ?

Well its only my theory

[B&Q]

Originally Posted by ISJ

LMAO @ Pope !!

Theres also the illuminated paddle switch he bought for £3.49 + p&p - there maybe a short somewhere and its causing the hamster in the turbo to strike like all the public sector did yesterday ?

Well its only my theory

Stalker!!!

That switch is now controlling my lecky aerial (needed for my TrafficMaster GPS doofer) given I've gone purist and removed the stereo. Though I spotted the same for £1.99 in Wilco....



You will also not fail to notice the eBay sourced illuminated (in a pleasing clock-like green glow) ciggy lighter, moved to make way for an oil temp gauge....

Oh and the dash DIN gauge panel which was a ripoff but I "need it"...

[ISJ]

Originally Posted by B&Q

Stalker!!!

Who me ????

Post a pic of your silicone boost pipe !