Clutch change advice

[MrE]

Hi i'm hoping someone can offer some advice on changing the clutch on my 94 plate R33 GTS-t. I can't find any info on the forum or the internet on a method or torque wrench settings etc. I've downloaded the service manual for the engine but that's got nothing on gearbox and clutch. I've changed plenty of clutches before but i hear skylines are a bit of a bitch to do? Can anyone steer me in the right direction please? Does anyone know of any links to a 'how to'?

Also is it worth changing the spigot/pilot bearing on the gearbox and i've heard of the clutch fork pivot breaking up, is it worth getting a new one of them too? All Nissan parts only? prices?

Thanks for any advice, Edd

[pete marshall]

i think its one of the most basic types of gearbox out and clutch change you'll ever do.
i would change the spigot bearing its always a good idea, the pivot for the fork can give probs but only usally if your using a heavier clutch, you can get an uprated version of this, i know RHD japan do them(thats where i got mine,about £28 posted).
as for a clutch, there are many on the market, depending what sort of power you want to put through it- watch cheap versions on egay tho. use a trader on here.IMO

[Jez-R32 GTR]

The R32 GTR push type clutch is ment to fit straight in, I'd go for the Exedy 30% uprated one unless you want to really up the power. As for changing it, it can't be a hard as a GTR one, they are a knightmare.

Don't let Billet fit it and don't get Gary to order the parts.

[MrE]

Thanks for the advice guys, i'm going for an Exedy single plate clutch as that should cope easily with 330 bhp i've got now and hopefully manage 450 bhp that i want in the future. The standard clutch that was fitted when i bought the car has had enough..... 3000 miles oops! Not suprising though really, the rear tyres are sticking it better than i thought they would!

I guessed doing the clutch shouldn't be too bad, i did a supra clutch not long back and that was easy enough. Has anyone got any torque wrench settings for the gearbox, clutch cover plate, flywheel (if i have to get it skimmed) and driveshaft please? Can you just use the standard torques for the bolt sizes from the service and engine manual?

Hi Jez good to hear from you, haven't spoken since you left, they got rid of the wrong bloke mate - even the fitters are saying that to me now! A GTR is bound to be a nightmare with all the front drive in way aswell! The worse i've come across was a MK2 MR2, you can barely move the gearbox in the engine bay let alone get it out!

Thanks for any info

Edd

[Ginger_ninja]

Hello mate, just done mine myself. Its an easy enough job. Get a complete kit. Pivot might not be a bad idea too if you can get one aswell.

i fitted a paddle clutch and its great.

Method: Disconnect the battery, jack up the car, drop the 'box oil out. While its draining undo the prop bolts and slide it off the splines. Remove gear stick. Put the drain plug back in the bottom then undo the gearbox mount, and sensor plugs and exhaust bracket ad slave cylinder and let the engine and box hang down. Remove the bolt at the top of the bellhousing(this one is a lil tw@), look down between the rocker covers to see it, then remove the bolt behind the n/s rocker cover. Remove the top starter bolt. Go under car and support the gearbox, then begin removing all the bottom bolts. Now remove gearbox.

Flywheel bolts are 105ft/ib

Clutch Cover bolts are 25-31ft/ib

[MrE]

Brillant thanks for the advice mate, i've ordered a spigot brg, exhaust gaskets just in case from conceptua tuning and an uprated release arm pivot from RHD Japan. Do you know the gearbox bolt torques by any chance?
Thanks, Edd

[Ginger_ninja]

yeah they're about: tight ib/ft.... Not sure really mate. X