Hicas, Slip & Engine Check Light

[Bubble]

Getting a bit peed off with this now.

My GTT has never had a problem with the HICAS light, or any other light comming on. Honey's GTT however, had the HICAS light on continously when we bought it and at the price, I took a chance. It turned out that the HICAS plug on the rack wasn't plugged in - sorted

Just before JAE, Sharon reported that the HICAS & SLIP light had come on when driving it. Stopping and turning the ignition off for 5 seconds resets it and then it's fine untill the next time it happens.

On around three occasions now, when starting the car from cold, the HICAS, SLIP and ENGINE CHECK lights have all come on and stayed on, with the engine running very lumpy. Switch off, restart and it's fine

I have worn the search button out now

I have:

1.Cleaned the earth connections for the HICAS pump and both plug connectors.
2.Cleaned the MAF plug connections.
3.Cleaned every connector that I can find on the engine.

Someone told me that the speedo converter chips can cause the HICAS light to come on, but why would the engine check light come on too, on start up sometimes?

[Squeak]

I know its alot of effort to get the clocks out but maybe worth a look to see which kind the speedo converter is?

[ovais]

It has to be the speedo converter, is a problem on all skylines. Have u tried removing the battery terminals and reseting the ecu. Try it maybe it will work. wooo hooo.

[Bubble]

I thought that I had fixed this by disconnecting the battery, cleaning the ECU pins and connector with switch cleaner. I used the car for nearly a month with out a problem. Then it started to play up again and cleaning the contacts has done no good this time.

Got hold of a Nissan Consult last night and found 3 fault codes:

Engine
Mass Airflow Sensor (16 times)

Ignition Signal Primary (17 times)

ABS
Engine System (17 times)

One thing that we did notice, was that on idle, the voltage readout was fluctuating between around 11 and 14 volts

[Grinder]

Just to share my experience, my HICAS light has never come on (except during switch-on) and the slip light - only when slipping . But the engine-check light has come on 3 or 4 times over the last 3 years. Each time it has gone out after switching off the engine.

However, coming home from JapShow Finale, I noticed the engine-check light was on and happened to turn the TCS back on and immediately the engine-check light went out.

I always wanted to connect to consult to see what was reported - next time you borrow one can you gimme a call mr bubble please?

I have been thinking of removing the speedo converter, but as I don't know where it is I haven't bothered.

I know my comments are not too helpful, but sometimes the smallest detail can help in these matters.

[Bubble]

That's interesting Tim, when all the lights have come up, I have played with the TCS switch, but nothing changed. The only way to put them all out was to turn the ignition off for 10 seconds. Incidently the car made it to Japshow and back and to the 200SX meet last night with no problems.

If you can make it to Colchester for the next meet, I'm sure we can check for any fault codes for you

[Moff]

I would have a guess at speedo converter too, also if someone has tried some Moff wiring techniques with it, that would cause issues I'm sure

Moff

[Andy M]

One thing that we did notice, was that on idle, the voltage readout was fluctuating between around 11 and 14 volts

If I where you I would look into this first. I had a Rover 820T for a while (bows head in shame) that had a list of electrical problems. Finally replaced the alternator & battery (probably overkill) and it cured the whole lot. Could be if the electics are running of a varied voltage, this is throwing the ECU.

[Bubble]

If I where you I would look into this first. I had a Rover 820T for a while (bows head in shame) that had a list of electrical problems. Finally replaced the alternator & battery (probably overkill) and it cured the whole lot. Could be if the electics are running of a varied voltage, this is throwing the ECU.

Right - looks like it's going to be a voltmeter directly on the back of the alternator to see what's going on - thanks

[Grinder]

Right - looks like it's going to be a voltmeter directly on the back of the alternator to see what's going on - thanks

I am curious if your standard dash mounted volt meter wavers as well, or is it rock solid 13v (I think) like mine?

[Bubble]

I am curious if your standard dash mounted volt meter wavers as well, or is it rock solid 13v (I think) like mine?

I think the standard guages are fairly heavily dampned (sp) and it seems to be steady.

[Clairol_Boy]

She's been ragging it proper style and not letting on

[Honey]

She's been ragging it proper style and not letting on

Right, no muffins for you! Telling on me like that

[Bubble]

Yesterday I got round to checking the voltages on Honey's GTT and I'm none the wiser

After standing overnight, battery voltage 12.20V

Start engine and 14.48V at the battery and 14.62V on the back of the alternator. Both the voltage readings were rock steady.

As a comparison I checked my GTT which hadn't been started for nearly a week:

Battery voltage 12.18V. Started the engine and 14.52 at the battery. I couldn't easily get on the back of the alternator due to the oil cooler pipes in the way.

[Eddie]

Geoff get a Tomei hicas lock kit off Vicky. Not only does it lock the hicas out there is a box of magic spliced into the hicas ecu to turn the warning light off

Fitted in less than an hour by Andy. 1st time he'd seen 1 & it went straight in no problems